How to Identify High-Quality Pearls

Pearls have been a bold fashion statement for many in the UK for centuries. They have a natural appeal and give off an air of timeless elegance, captivating the hearts of merchants and buyers alike with its lustre and proportion. However, as the demand for high-quality pearls grow in the UK, it is important to be aware of a few key factors that separate the inferior and the cheap ones from the finest. And this short guide will tell you everything you need to know when it comes to identifying the high-quality pearls in the UK markets.

Understanding The Difference Between Real and Fake Pearls

Before we get to the key factors that separate the best pearls from the rest, we must understand the different types of pearls and learn how to recognise the real pearls from the fake ones.

Real pearls are what you should be going for and are produced by oysters in either freshwater or sea-water lakes, which is another distinction in its own. Depending upon the involvement of human assistance, pearls can be classified as natural or cultured. Almost all of the pearls that you see in the UK jewellery markets are cultured, and are commonly referred to as farmed pearls. It is thanks to the technique of culturing pearls that pearls are now available and affordable to all because natural pearls, formed without human intervention, are extremely rare and consequently, expensive. 

There are several ways to tell whether a pearl is real or fake: 

1. If a pearl appears to be perfectly round, there is a high probability that it's fake. Real pearls have an irregular surface with a unique sheen that may not be uniform throughout. 

2. If a pearl feels heavier, it could be real as the collective organic matter tends to weigh it down. Fake pearls are lighter thanks to the crude material used to make them. Their composition also makes them warmer to the touch, compared to the coolness of a real pearl. 

3. The most prominent feature to look out for are the ‘nacre layers’, organic growth lines that are visible on the surface of a real pearl. Fake pearls reveal no such growth lines and the surface appears too smooth under the microscope.

Saltwater and Freshwater Pearls

Another key difference between pearls is the area of origin, with the two types being either saltwater or freshwater pearls. Freshwater pearls come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes while saltwater pearls are more rounder with a smoother surface. It is worth noting that saltwater pearls have a whitish or cream-ish colour with shades of pink or gold or even silver while its freshwater counterparts come in a wide range of colours. Saltwater pearls are usually more expensive than freshwater pearls as they have better shapes and their lustre often sets them apart as the finer choice.

Identifying High-Quality Pearls: Key Factors To Consider

Now that we know the difference between real and fake pearls, let us explore how the quality is determined. Like all the other precious metals and stones in the market, the high-quality pearls are also determined by several key factors. 

1. Size: The larger the pearl, the rarer they will be and as a result, will be more expensive. Measurement for size is usually done in millimetres and even a slight change in diameter can change the price or quality significantly. Of course, the size of a pearl will ultimately depend upon the type of the pearl, how rare it is and its growth period but in the UK market, the larger the pearl, the higher the value entrusted to it.

2. Shape: The next key factor to look for is the shape, with the round ones on the high end of the price spectrum. A pearl comes in a wide array of shapes and sizes and higher values are placed on pearls that appear more symmetrical and without any irregularities. Perfectly round pearls fetch the highest of prices, followed by near-round, oval, drops and buttons. 

3. Surface: A surface with irregularities is a problem and indicates low quality. High-quality pearls have a smooth surface, not perfectly smooth, but a natural smoothness with only a few blemishes. The lesser the number of blemishes, the better the quality and in turn, fetches the best prices. There's clean, which indicates no blemishes, lightly spotted, followed by moderately spotted and finally, heavily spotted which indicates the largest number of irregularities or blemishes.

4. Lustre: It is simply the sharpness of light reflected from the pearl’s surface. The more lustrous the pearl, the better and brighter the light it reflects. Lustre is one of the most crucial identifies in pearl quality and low-quality pearls will appear dim and drab. However, don't fall for perfectly shining surfaces as these could be fake pearls.

5. Nacre Thickness: Another important identifier to take note of is the nacre thickness that brings both colour and lustre to the pearls. Thicker nacre layers give off a glossy surface appearance, making the pearls more robust. Thin nacre layers, on the other hand, can cause the pearls to look full and brittle. The thicker the nacre layer, the better the quality and it can be measured by the experts by using x-ray imaging. It is worth mentioning that the pearls with thicker nacre layers are more likely to maintain their beauty in the coming years.

It's common knowledge that pearls come in a wide variety of colours. Although they are a great visual indicator, colours do not affect the quality of the pearls and it is often a distinction of personal preference. However, pearls with rarer colours are usually more expensive.

Buying pearl jewellery can be a bit overwhelming, but if you are in the market for high-quality pearls and if you have no idea where to start, you can contact us at Eternity Jewels as we have the finest assortment of pearls for you to peruse. Give us a call and book an appointment today!